As the day unfolded to clear blue skies and a
gentle warm breeze, we ambled down to the Parador breakfast spread to start our
engines if you will. We had met a couple the previous evening at the next
table, our age or so. Come to find out, that they were both born in Peru but
have spent the past 30+ years in Phoenix. They have walked the way twice each
loved the movie, The Way. They had found it interesting that we had just driven
out to the shrine where the movie ended all filmed in Muxia. They told of
riding the tourist train and exploring the town of Baeza only 15 Km away. As we
left the
parador we turned left to visit the church in the same plaza. Another
16 century building! The town is quite remarkable with the oldest part all
built of that lovely golden stone, just like the Cotswalds in England. Somehow,
unlike many places in Spain it has avoided being bombed , burned or demolished
by opposing factions! Which is remarkable as there plenty of those in this
little town. Eventually Queen Isabel stepped in and told them to knock it off!
It did not happen for a few decades but eventually under the strong rule of
Isabel and Ferdinand it stopped. Isabel called “it a golden glass filled with
poison”. The church was beautiful, got to admire those ancient craftsmen!
Off we went
to explore Baeza after refueling and visiting the local Carrefour department store
and gas station. Baeza is a lovely little town located at the top of a mountain
plateau. Crowded streets and hardly any parking on any of the side streets we
drove around and around trying to find a public parking garage but to no avail.
Now I don’t know about anyone else, but driving around a town for an hour and
not finding even Public parking is not my idea of fun! In fact it makes me very cranky! Paul had
spotted a place close to an outdoor café so we stopped for a coffee, decided to
cut our losses, and headed back to Ubeda.
Lunch was at a taperia just down the street from
the Parador Ubeda. It was pretty packed, but they packed us in too right next
to a table of loud raucous teen boys. Out of school and just full of
themselves. There was one in particular who shouted to get everyone’s attention
and also clapped his hands emphatically whilst roaring with laughter!
The food was pretty good with a surtido de tapas
for 10 Euros! That is, 12 tapas, chef’s choice to share! Far too much food but
interesting and good and very cheap! Anyway once refresched we returned to the
Parador for a short siesta.
As we departed the Parador we noticed that both
the tourist train and tourist bus were parking awaiting their next fares. We
choose the 30 min bus tour and the girl certainly knew her history of the city
and the various historical buildings she drove us to or around or just the down
the narrow passageways at which she stopped to narrative and allow a quick
Kodak shot as well.
Afterwards
we enjoyed a refreshment before trying to decide where we might have dinner.
At9:30 PM we found a resturante tucked in around the alleyway between the
Parador and the Catherdral. Again Paul had lamb chops and Jane had a fish,
Lubina including a mass of tiny bones. Great meal and back to crash at the
Parador just 20 meters away.
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