DAY TWO Leon to Ponferrada, S;pain

We awake after our transitional deep sleep and were adjusted but greeted to an overcast sky Google said it was 45F and expected to just about top out at 52F later today. We sorted our selfies and headed to the tradional Parador buffet spread to start our day. Refueled with eggs toast, ham and yogurt, fruit and coffee con leche. We went back to our room for pack-up and organization to depart no later than 1030 as usual. Paul pulled  Seat up to the luggage ramp and we were on our way to Ponferrada. However, Paul had noticed a

Hotel Temple Dining Room

supermarket just behind the e parking so we stopped for tissues, washing liquid, water to refill our bottles, etc. An elderly lady was so kind to point out the best choice of hand wash liquid.  However, once in the car Carmin Garmin started to flex her muscles by directing us into a

traffic circle, take second exit which we did after which she began RECALCULATING and informed us to complete as soon as possible a Legal U-Turn back to the u circle from whence we came!! Ultimately Jane reverted to our Michelin map book to find our way to the outskirts of town and the N120 to Ponferrada. Jane wanted to see Astorga along the way however, the upper center of the old town was having road construction even in the steady downpour. And so we continued on to find a coffee on the outskirts of Astorga where we found a castle like hotel/motel which was open but not extremely populated with humanity. Two coffees and a short conversation with the chap behind the bar, the hotel was built merely 40 years ago “in the style of a templar castle. The place was huge and reflected grand plans but someone forgot to notify the local travelers of the available rooms!! Back on the highway refreshed we climbed to a pass at 4500 ft. Paul said his Odometer showed 2 C just before it began to flash a snowflake symbol next to the 2C reading and sure enough the droplets hitting the windshield took on the noticeable circle of slush drops. Even the grass along the side of the road was turning white however, the road surface did not turn slippery. By the time we reached Ponferrada the Odometer again showed 6C and the slush drops returned to nothing more than normal raindrops. Garmin this time directed us to the front door of the Hotel Temple de Ponferrada. We pulled up front put on the 4-way flashers so Jane could find out the details about checking in. I noticed several other cars had been unloading but not yet pulled out and so I awaited the outcome. Ultimately someone pulled out behind me and I reversed to capture one of the free parking slots out front of the hotel, as they want 11 Euros per night in their garage. As it was merely 1330 we decided to just have lunch at the hotel versus wandering around in the rain for an eating place. Jane had fish soup/meatballs with peas while Paul had an ensalada mixta followed by merluza fish. After eating it was siesta time and besides we had to wait for the skies to dry out a little.

I want to emphasize that Paul’s posts will involve a lot of Carmen screw ups and food…always the food! I on the other hand with educate and inspire! No shrinking violet here! On the road to Ponferrada we passed dozens if not hundreds of drenched peregrines. I felt a pang of sympathy as they trudged through the rain, mud and puddles on their paths which mostly paralleled the highway but sometimes veered off into the trees and rejoined the paths by the road. They soldiered on valiantly, with flapping plastic ponchos covering all that they carried. Some brave souls had shorts and bare heads, it was cold and very wet and many of them were quite mature, Seriously didn’t they know better?

Knights Templar Castilla - Ponferrada, Spain

Ponferrada Street Art versus Graffiti.

Ponferrada is not a big town but boasts a magnificent 12^th century Knights Templar Castilla. The knights Templar were warrior monks who were sanctioned by the pope to guard pilgrims on their travels to Santiago and Jerusalem and were active in the Crusades. They actually were the precursors to our current banking system. Wealthy men did not want to carry a lot of money and so gave the monks the money and were granted letters of credit which they could use in the vast network that the Templars had set up throughout Europe along with fortresses for the protection of the travelers. In many ways their banking system was similar to today’s PayPal system just without the internet and computers. They were very business savvy and managed to accumulate great wealth which eventually led to their downfall. There were many attempts to discredit the Knights but Philip IV brought about the fall of the Templars and it was brutal. The facts remain, their castles survive and their legacy of service is legendary. Castles and fortresses are throughout  Europe and along the Mediterranean. The stuff legends are made off! Love it.

We met some interesting people, a taxi lady taxi driver who assured us the this weather is not normal, another who said they had only one week of spring….I thought they did protest too much…this weather was just wailing for the Beskows to arrive! Nice young ladies at the tourist office, always good for a nice chat in Spanish, and then to a sidewalk café for Bitter Kas and a nibble. The rain had stopped. The sun was shining and it was time for wine and pinchos! Another long day. Off to bed. I may have more tomorrow on the Hostal San Marcos which was also originally  10^th century Templar digs.